West Ridge - Prusik Peak - C2C
Bare Bones
Route: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III*
Approach/deproach via Colchuck and Aasgard Pass
*According to Mountain Project/Summit Post
Length: Car2Car < 14 hr (leisurely pace, smelling the flowers, saying hi to the goats, swimming)
Dates: June 21, 2020
Climbing Gear:
Here’s my regular PSA that just because someone on the internet used a certain rack (or lack thereof) does not mean it’s the right rack for you.
6 Grivel Alpine Plume draws (ultralight!); 4x double-lengths
3 Grivel Plume Nut K3N locking carabiners (even lighter omg 💘)
7 cams 0.3- #2 BD sizes
60m Beal Joker 9.1mm dry-treated rope
ATC, Stealth Helmet, comfy climbing shoes
Grivel Ghost Evo Axe with trigger (not necessary, but my partner wanted me to bring it, and it’s so light, that why not?).
The Details
Continuing on a 2 week streak of car2car missions, and 24 hr after a long, bushwacky/mosquito-filled day on the NE Couloir on Argonaut, I was ready for a more laid-back day. A quick jaunt up the West Ridge of Prusik was just what I wanted. Great views, goats, easy climbing, and an approach that had a trail the whole way.
We left around 6am from the trailhead and were back in time for a steak dinner.
We cruised up Aasgard and were soon on the high Enchantments trail heading towards Prusik.
We went super light and then… brought a glass jar of olives and brine. What can I say, we’re incongruous women. But have you had olives on a 14 mile, 6k’ of vert day? SO GOOD. Highly recommend for a snack and to replenish your electrolytes.
This wouldn’t be an Alpine trip without some goats
Big goat, little goats, furry goats, cute goats
Questineering up the first couple pitches. I linked a lot of them/simul-ed and I think we ended up doing the whole thing in 3 pitches?
Snow was soft on the approaches and we only brought trail runners, which made our packs weigh little and our feet feel light.
Sandwich break with a view
A pitch of some real climbing. Could’ve probably brought 3 cams instead of 7 and gotten away with it to be honest. Lots of things to sling.
Summit lounging while waiting for my partner to come up the final pitch before rapping down. I went far right and around on the final pitch. Next time I’ll just go straight up the ‘off-width’ to reduce rope drag shenanigans.
Getting some water on the rappels. Was able to fill up 2 full liters and then some.
I can never resist a dip in an alpine lake. Deb is more reluctant, but supports me in my polar bear plunges.
Motivational Quote goes here -> “When life gets hard, channel your inner marmot”
What can I say, lovely day in the mountains with some scrambling. Will come back to do some of the more technical routes in the future because the views are spectacular and the rock stellar. Olives are definitely getting packed next time as well.